Do: Streamline your regimen. Cutlan’s motto is: Less is more. “The 10-step skincare rituals expose the skin to hundreds of chemicals that put a lot of stress on the skin and microbiome, causing imbalances, sensitivities and compounded skin issues,” she cautions. On that note, Bowe advises against layering active ingredients that are potentially irritating. “Some of our most powerful active skincare ingredients, the ones with mountains of evidence supporting their skin benefits, are known irritants and can weaken the skin barrier if used incorrectly,” she says, adding that you should also build in what she calls “recovery nights,” meaning nights when you don’t use any harsh actives and just focus on hydrating, nourishing biome-friendly ingredients. She is also adamant about skipping any aggressive physical exfoliation steps. “Toss your facial scrubs and your spin brush–manual exfoliation tools and products are terrible for sensitive skin,” she explains. “They destroy your healthy, delicate skin barrier.”
Don’t: Use drying alcohols on the face. “They’re often found in toners, and people with acne or oily skin love how they degrease the skin, but this comes at a tremendous cost,” says Bowe. “These drying alcohols damage your microbiome, and in turn, your skin barrier.” According to Bowe, drying alcohols are often listed on labels as SD alcohol, denatured alcohol, ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol. On the other hand, hydrating alcohols, or fatty alcohols, such as cetyl, stearyl and cetearyl alcohol, are good for your skin. “These alcohols are emollients, meaning they keep skin hydrated and supple—yes, the exact opposite of what you might expect when you see the word ‘alcohol’ on the label,” says Bowe.
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