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Click here to buy this shirt: Angelique EST Toujours En Retard Sauf Pour L’Apero Beer Vintage Shirt, hoodie, v-neck tee
Helmut Newton checks a printing sheet during Frankfurt Book Fair, 1999. The print features model Nadja wearing Dolce & Gabbana for American Vogue, Monte Carlo, 1995 The complicated thing about Newton’s images is that they presented women through the male gaze, yet they were created for and sold to women. Leafing through the pages of Newton’s book today prompts more questions. Do women in 2020 like to look like a Newton muse? Are these photographs still erotic in that they reflect today’s ideals of sensuality and intimacy? Being a woman isn’t a monolithic experience, so we won’t all agree on the answer.
Amid #MeToo, his images are more complicated to translate. Today we talk about positionality, the social and political context that creates your identity. Newton was a heterosexual cisgender white male, working during an era when it would not have been the mainstream view to acknowledge that his photography might have been symbolic of a patriarchal society. The pictures were enjoyed for their titillating fantasies, alluding to sexually charged power tussles between prey and predator, which he imagined and constructed. It is also important to recognize the autonomous eroticism of his leading female stars. Grace Jones says in the trailer for the aforementioned documentary, “He was a little bit pervert, but so am I!”
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