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Perhaps the most expected nod this year was Mank, which, with its retelling of the laborious process of Herman J. Mankiewicz’s journey to writing the script for Citizen Kane, was always going to feature heavily come awards season given its deep dive into classic Hollywood lore. It helped, though, that the drama came lavishly and thoughtfully costumed by designer Trish Summerville, whose decade-long working partnership with David Fincher has seen her become a trusted collaborator. That’s especially notable given Fincher’s notoriously exacting approach to constructing the visual worlds of his movies. With stars Amanda Seyfried, Lily Collins, and Tuppence Middleton all appearing in a never-ending series of glitzy draped gowns and delicate silk blouses—not to mention Seyfried’s showstopping majorette costume during a scene set at Hearst Castle—Summerville’s work also provided a welcome note of playfulness within the film’s overall more muted aesthetic.
Another shoo-in this year was the work of veteran costume designer Ann Roth for Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom. At 89, Roth—who won previously in 1998 for her work on regular collaborator Anthony Minghella’s The English Patient—ties the record for the oldest nominee in Oscars history. And from the film’s opening scene, which sees Viola Davis singing the blues to a rapturous crowd in 1920s Chicago sporting a swishy beaded gown and a flapper-style headscarf, it was made clear the audience was in for a roller-coaster ride of opulent Roaring Twenties fashion—bonus points too for the impeccable Jazz Age tailoring on the film’s male stars, including Chadwick Boseman and Colman Domingo. If Emma is this year’s front-runner, then Ma Rainey is nipping closely at its heels.
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